A hike in this sacred mountain in Kyoto gave me magical power
The folklore says that Tengu lives in Mt. Kurama. I didn’t see it, but I definitely felt its magical power when I hiked in the mountain.
Mt. Kurama is located in the north part of Kyoto City. It takes about 45 minutes from the city center by train. I was planning to simply visit the temple with a friend of mine from Tokyo. Due to the typhoon, the Shinkansen (bullet train) stopped, she didn’t arrive in Kyoto until later in the evening. Left alone, with the beautiful weather with typhoon already passed, I decided to take a hike from Kurama to Kifune.
I was previously told that the route from Kurama to Kifune is an easy, flat, an hour-long hike. Dead wrong! Especially for me who haven’t done even much walking lately. The trail was either steep uphill or downhill steps. No flat path.
So many times I almost gave up moving forward one more step. But whenever I felt hopeless, fresh breeze came. The branches of the tall trees swayed, making gentle sounds. As if the wind was pushing me gently on my back, I made another stride.
Fudodo 不動堂: Photo by Author Akemi Sagawa
After reaching Fudodo, the path became downhill, till I finally heard the stream of Kifune River. An hour-long hike ended up about two and a half hour. My right calf was aching. My left hip was aching. Walking along the river, I felt exhausted.
The destination was a restaurant called Sagenta 左源太. The owner and a friend of mine was waiting for me at 2 pm. I barely made it.
The eating place was literally above the river. In the summer time, the restaurants in Kibune spread the platform above the river so that the guest can enjoy the meals while feeling the cool breeze. It’s a great escape from the scorching heat and humidity felt in the city of Kyoto.
The bento box lunch with a fresh grilled Ayu fish was divine. By the time I said thank you and goodbye to my friend, the fatigue of my body was completely gone! I regained so much energy that I felt I could go back hiking the same route that I had barely made it (well, I didn’t).
My friend said, “There must be a reason for you to come here, hiking, alone. You may call it serendepity. The Mountain has chosen you today.”
I totally believe that. I simply bow down to Mt. Kurama and Kifune River.