Ask The Right Question for Happiness

“What can I contribute,” not “What’s in it for me”

After living for more than 60 years, I’m finally beginning to prefer asking myself “what can I do to contribute?” rather than “what’s in it for me?”


I was requested to conduct an ikebana demonstration for a group of 25 or so people. 

The duration of the demonstration is an hour.  It takes at least an hour and a half each way to drive.  In order to make 3-4 ikebana arrangements for the demonstration, I need at least several hours of preparation a day before.  I need to go get some materials also. 

What I get in return is an honorarium that may or may not cover the gas and the material cost, and the words of gratitude from the audience.

If I seek an answer to the question “what’s in it for me?” or “what would I get?”,  it’s hard to convince myself to say yes to this request.

But if I ask instead, “What can I contribute?”,  the answer is quite different. 

People who gathered are all interested in learning ikebana. Some are total beginners.  By seeing my demonstration, such beginners might be inspired and decide to learn ikebana regularly. Some practice different schools of Ikebana.  Such people might find it eye-opening to learn different techniques.  Those who have been studying Sogetsu ikebana, the same school as me, might refresh their memory by watching basic techniques taught by a different person.

Even in a minute way, I may contribute to making a change in the lives of someone out of those who watch my demonstration. 


The possibility of the answer to “what can I contribute?”, is enormous. Way more satisfactory than the answer I get by asking “what’s in it for me”.

The trick of making myself satisfied or even happy lies not in the answer, but in the question.  For too long I guess I had been asking myself a wrong question.  Hopefully it’s not too late.  Why don’t I keep asking myself, “what can I contribute?” 

Thank you very much, Daisosho

 “Peacefulness through a bowl of tea” will always be with us

I was shocked by the news that came from Japan late last night. It said that Sen Genshitsu, the 15th-generation grand master of Urasenke School of Japanese Tea Ceremony, had passed away.  News earlier this year was reporting that he was still visiting overseas at age 102… Apparently, he had been in poor health for the past few days.

Coincidentally, it was one day before the 80th anniversary of the end of World War II. I wonder how Grand Master felt on this day every year.


For me, a student of Urasenke School, it’s more natural to call him “Daisosho 大宗匠.”

In November 2016, we Urasenke Tankokai Seattle Chapter members participated in the Sotanki memorial tea gathering in Kyoto.  Since such an opportunity occurs only once in every ten years, I felt quite lucky to be one of such members to visit Kyoto after studying tea ceremony for only two years or so. 

At the welcome dinner, Daisosho welcomed us who came from abroad with a warm smile.  He was supposed to attend the dinner only at the beginning and leave soon after his opening remarks that night, because he was to leave for Tokyo very early the next morning.  But he ended up staying until the very end, greeting each one of us. When we were sitting hesitantly at the table, he urged us to get in line at the buffet, saying, “The food’s getting cold. Go get the food.  Don’t be shy.”

Together with my tea friend, I mustered up the courage to ask if we could take a photo together with him.  No problem!  He immediately posed for a photo.

Time passed.  I kept on practicing tea ceremony.  And we Seattle Tankokai members are honored to visit Kyoto again next March.  I was looking forward to seeing Daisosho again…

It’s no longer possible.  The photo above is the only one I took with Daisosho.

Although Daisosho is no longer with us, his legacy is with us.  The spirit of “peacefulness through a bowl of tea” will always be with us.

Thank you so much, Daisosho.  Please rest in peace…

Here is my previous article about Daisosho.  Who he was, what he did… In case you don’t know about him, I would appreciate it if you read this.

The Restaurant My Father Used to Love

I visited it 47 years later by chance

Although I don’t remember exactly when, it must be on a spring or early summer night in 1979. I was a junior in high school, got accepted to spend a whole year in the US as an exchange student through an organization called AFS, then called American Field Service.  Before I left for the US in July, my father took us to a fugu (blowfish) restaurant for a family dinner.

My father, being the owner of a small electricity-construction company, was working hard and seldom at home for dinner time.  Even on the weekend, he would usually be gone visiting worksites.  So, going out for dinner with the family itself was a special event for me.  My father must have realized that not seeing his only daughter for the whole year was not a trivial matter. 

And considering that his daughter would be away from Japan for a whole year, my father must have thought it through to decide which restaurant to take us.


The restaurant was called Seigetsu 清月. Our family was taken to a tatami-mat room upstairs. We were the only customers in a rather large room.

From the way my father and the okami, or proprietress of the restaurant, were talking to each other, I sensed that they had known each other for a long time.  I assumed my father must have often used this place to entertain his clients.  

As the first dish, Tessa, or fugu (blowfish) sashimi, was served.  Very thin slices of fugu meat were spread neatly like flower petals on a large, flat, round porcelain plate. The firm texture of the thin slice was a surprise for me.  It must have been my first time to eat fugu, and I loved it!

The main dish was “Tetchiri” or fugu hot pot. The fugu meat was cooked with various kinds of vegetables and tofu.  The broth was brilliantly light both in color and the taste.  The delicate fugu meat was delicious with the ponzu, the mixture of soy sauce and citrus juice. 

After we ate Tetchiri, the okami brought white rice.  She cleared away most of the leftover vegetables and flakes of fugu meat carefully with a mesh ladle.   Into the transparent broth left in the pot, she put rice and kept on cooking for a while. Then she poured beaten eggs on the rice. “Once you pour eggs, you turn off the heat and close the lid.  You cook the eggs with the residual heat of the rice and the broth.  That’s the secret of making the most delicious Ojiya,” said the okami.

It didn’t take long.  Maybe only three or four minutes.  The thick pot made of clay kept the rice and broth warm.  When the okami opened the lid, the rice, broth, and the eggs were harmonized to make the perfect Ojiya. After she served the Ojiya to four individual bowls, she instructed us to pour a little bit of ponzu and sprinkle crushed nori (dried seaweed) on top of it.  The Ojiya was heavenly.


Time has passed.  After I returned from the US, our family did go out for dinner, maybe several more times, but never back to Seigetsu.

I moved to the US to live.  My father passed away in 2004. 


On a sunny day in April, 2025.  After we went to see Yoshitsune Senbonzakura at the National Bunraku Theatre, my mother and I were hungry.  Along the way, walking back to the subway station from the theatre, I happened to turn my head on the right, and noticed the character on the sign of an old Japanese-style restaurant.  I could only see the second character and it was “月.”

I couldn’t help but approach toward the sign to see what the first character. It was “清.” 

Does the restaurant serve fugu? The tagline of the restaurant said only ‘Kappo,” a more generic term of a type of Japanese cuisine.  Closely looking at the list of items shown on the menu by the door, I found the word “fugu.”

This must be the one. After 47 years, I finally found the restaurant that I hadn’t even been particularly looking for or seriously thought of.


My mother and I went inside.  The woman in an apron welcomed us.  She looked not much older than me.  We were seated on a small tatami section on the opposite side of the counter.  Beyond the counter was a chef working alone.  He looked around in his seventies.

“How long has this restaurant been here?” I asked.  The chef responded, “My parents started this restaurant shortly after the war was over.  My mother, in her late 90’s, still comes here to work once or twice a week.  I want to retire someday, but not as long as my mother is still alive.”

My mother and I ordered a hot pot.  When it came to adding rice to the broth to make Ojiya, I asked the woman in an apron.  “As soon as you pour eggs, you close the lid, and turn off the heat, right?”  The woman said, “I don’t know about any other restaurants, but  that’s the way our restaurant has always been doing.” 

The meal was more than delicious.  My mother and I would definitely come back here again, hopefully soon.  Hopefully when the okami is working here.   To ask her if she by any chance remembers my father… 

The Palace Waiting for Its Master to Return for over 150 Years

Will it ever happen?

The Imperial Palace in Kyoto is now open to the public.  After we enjoyed the cherry blossoms in the outer garden, three of us in kimono went into the entrance gate to take a tour of the inner side of the palace.

The main building is called Shishinden 紫宸殿, where formal rituals were held.  When we visited, the cherry tree on the right side of the building was in full bloom.  The tree is called “Sakon no Sakura 左近の桜 (the cherry on the left side).”  Why left?  Because the tree is on his left when the emperor looks out from inside the building.       

The tour doesn’t allow us to go into the building, but you can look inside from the pathway.

Compared with the flamboyant palaces in European countries like Versailles, the interior of this palace is quite simple.  Pictures are painted on the sliding doors here and there. 

You can walk through the private garden where past emperors used to spend time. The serene scenery that changes colors according to the seasons must have offered the emperors an opportunity to be reflective from time to time.


Kyoto became Japan’s capital when the emperor Kammu (737 – 806) moved there in 794, and it remained so for over 1000 years until 1869.

The emperor used to be the ruler of the country in the early days.  The ruling power moved to the samurai clans in the 12th century.  Minamoto Clan (12th – 14th  C), Hojo (14th – 15th C), Ashikaga (15th – 16th C), and Tokugawa Clan (17th – 19th C)… While the rulers changed hands, Japan’s emperors remained as the ritual figurehead and kept their residency in Kyoto. 

When Tokugawa Ieyasu unified the country after a century of civil wars, he built his own castle in Edo and began to rule Japan from there.  Ieyasu, however, never dethroned the emperor nor moved the emperor from Kyoto.  The lineage of emperors continued to reside in the palace in Kyoto.

Then the Meiji Government took over in 1868.  By then, Edo was practically the center of Japan economically and politically.  The newly formed government changed the name of the city from Edo to Tokyo 東京, which literally means the eastern capital, and also moved the emperor from Kyoto to Tokyo.  As the new residence of the emperor, people regarded Tokyo as Japan’s new capital.

Many people in Kyoto, however, think that the emperor is away from Kyoto only temporarily.  The imperial palace in Kyoto is maintained as a place for special rituals.  Not only that, many people believe that the facilities are waiting for the master to return eventually.

Will the emperor ever return to Kyoto permanently?   Who knows.  After having hosted the emperor for over 1000 years, many people in Kyoto think that 150 years is too short to justify Tokyo as the new capital. 

Our Kimono Supported the Beauty of Cherry Blossoms

And we all felt honored

In the last several years, I have visited the two sisters whenever I go back to Kyoto.  Rakufulin sisters, as I call them, produce beautiful obis.  Each of their works of art has a story behind its design. As I got to know them better, I became more and more intrigued in their stories.


Each time we met, our phrase of saying good-by was always “let’s go out together in kimono nest time.”  After repeating it so many times, we started to wonder if we were using this phrase in vain.  But this spring, we finally made it a true statement!

The weather was perfect.  Not too cold, not too hot.  Above all, it was not raining.  And the timing was perfect!  According to the cherry blossom forecast, the cherry trees in Kyoto Imperial Palace were 70 – 80% in full bloom.  We can’t afford to miss this opportunity!  The night before my visit, I texted Reiko-san, the older sister, that I’m coming in kimono.  So will she and Aiko-san, the younger sister, was her reply.


The next morning, I put on my new obi with my mother’s Oshima Tsumugi kimono and took a bus from Osaka to Kyoto. The bus was not crowded, so I lounged in the seat comfortably for about 80 minutes. 

When I arrived at their office, both Reiko-san and Aiko-san welcomed me in their kimono.  Reiko-san was wearing her mother’s old obi with a cherry blossoms design, and Aiko-san was wearing one designed by her grandfather, the founder of Rakufulin.  After enjoying the seasonal bento box lunch, we walked to the north side of the Kyoto Imperial Palace together. 

The design of Reiko-san’s obi has different kinds of cherry blossoms.  Some are the kind that bloom early in the spring.  Also Somei Yoshino, which blooms in mid-spring.  Then blossoms of Yaezakura, which bloom later. The design gives Reiko-san an opportunity to wear this obi throughout the spring. 

My new obi is designed by Reiko-san.  She got an inspiration from the original pattern, called Taishi Kanto, of an ancient fabric housed in Horyuji Temple in Nara.  The fabric is believed to have been used by Shotoku Taishi (574 – 622).  With her choice of colors and the rhythm of the line, Reiko-san has resurrected the 1400-year-old design pattern to suit the obi of the 21st century.

Aiko-san’s obi is one of Rakufulin’s signature designs.  Her grandfather traveled all around the world and collected textiles.  Inspired by exotic patterns, he created one-of-a-kind designs fitted to obi. 


On the corner on which a mansion of the Konoe Family once stood, the cherry trees were in full bloom.  No matter how dressed up we were, we were mere models to supplement the dominant, graceful, and impermanent beauty of nature.  And we were all honored to be there together on that sunny spring afternoon. 

Four Emotions Evoked While Walking Along Japan’s Oldest Road

Tranquility, Nostalgia, Dispair, and Hope

  1. Yamanobe no Michi – photo by Author

After visiting Omiwa Shrine with my mother, Yuri-san and I parted from her and headed north along Yamanobe no Michi 山辺の道. 

Stretching north and south on the foothills of Mt. Miwa, Yamanobe no Michi is known as one of the oldest roads in Japan. Both Kojiki 古事記 and Nihonshoki 日本書紀, Japan’s oldest written documents, mention this ancient road.  Japan’s oldest road passing by Omiwa Shrine 大神神社, Japan’s oldest shrine… That pairs well.

While walking about 6 miles along this ancient road from Omiwa Shrine to Tenri Station, different emotions evoked.

Tranquility

Yamanobe no michi – photo by Author

The path just off of Omiwa Jinja was unpaved, too narrow for a car to drive through.  Tall trees stood on both sides for a while.  Then the left side of the path became a little more open.  But the path remained too narrow for a car. Yuri-san, who had walked this path before, led the way.   

I was surprised by the quietness.  What a difference it makes if there is no car passing by us!  I heard birds chirping and tree branches swinging to the breeze.  I heard a subtle sound my shoes made when making each step.  These sounds were much gentler and more soothing than the noise of the car engine.  In order to gain convenience, what have we lost from our daily lives?

Nostalgia

Stone monument of a poem by Kakinoueno Hitomaro – photo by Author

Here and there alongside the road were stone monuments with a poem and the name of the person who wrote it, engraved on the stone. Many poems were written by Kakinomotono Hitomaro柿本人麻呂.  I found one written by Takechino Miko 高市皇子.  Both names appear in Man’yōshū 万葉集, Japan’s oldest collection of Japanese poems.   

After over 1400 years, I was stepping on the same road, looking at the same mountain, admiring the same beauty as these ancient poets did. 

Monument of Matsuo Basho’s poem – photo by Author

Walking a little further, I found another stone monument with a poem.  The name appeared as Munefusa 宗房, who is that?  The wooden plaque that stood next to the stone monument stated that it was Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 (1644 – 1694)’s another name when he was younger.   Ah, even a master haiku poet in the 17th century paid a visit to honor their ancient predecessors. 

Honor system stand selling produce and sweets – photo by Author

Yamanobe no Michi mainly runs through the farmland.  Although we didn’t see people around, we thanked their kind heart for leaving their produce and goodies they had made.  A piece of mochi or rice cake for only 100 yen!  Such an honor system seemed to remain the norm around here.  Something that modern city life has long forgotten.

Dispair

The front gate of an abandoned house – photo by Author

The houses along the road were mainly old-looking.  Single-story farm houses surrounded by board fences.  Houses with a large front yard, with branches of pine, persimmon, or cherry trees hanging over the fences.  These houses resembled those that once stood in my parents’ hometown in Tokushima 50 years ago.  Perhaps similar houses also used to fill the cities, but are rarely seen nowadays.

Looking closer, I noticed the front yard of many houses looked unattended.  Windows were half open or broken.  There was no sign of anybody living there anymore.    I may be exaggerating, but at least a quarter of the houses in the neighborhood seemed abandoned.

When you are in the middle of Tokyo, you can’t believe that Japan is losing its people.  The depopulation of Japan, however, looks so real when you visit a countryside like this. 

Signage on the tree – photo by Author

Along the road was also what used to be farmland, now abandoned.  To whom does this land belong?  To the family of that house, now nobody live?

The sign attached to a half-dead tree says, “Volunteers of Nakayama Town are maintaining the abandoned Satoyama 里山 woodland.  Please tell us any idea how to make use of the bamboo trees that are cut down to clear the land.”

What is Satoyama?  Below is an excerpt from Japan’s Ministry of Environment website.

“Satoyama are usually located in the rural areas of Japan where agriculture, forestry and fisheries are the main industries. They are known as socio ecological production landscapes and seascapes, SEPLS in short. They consist of production ecosystems like secondary forests, farmlands, irrigation ponds, and grasslands as well as human settlements.

They are created by human activities to produce food and fuels, but eventually become irreplaceable habitats for a range of fauna and flora. Moreover, Satoyama serve multidimensional functions, in a broader context, including national land conservation and headwater conservation, while providing places for healing or leisure and inspiring the creation of art and literature.

Those ecosystem services from Satoyama, including necessary resources, safety and comfort, are co-created by both nature and continued human interventions.

Therefore, it is crucial to sonserve their biodiversity as they are inseparable from human activities.”

In abandoned Satoyama, invasive bamboo trees become the threat to its biodiversity.  Hats off to the volunteers of Nakayama Town for their laborious efforts to eliminate the bamboo trees.  Have they found a good solution to utilize the bamboo?

Hope

Cofnia – photo by Author

We stopped by at what looked like a café.  Unfortunately it was not open, but the shopkeeper came out and explained about the building. 

A young woman acquired an old house by the road that had been unoccupied for more than ten years.  She raised over 5 mil. yen through and by collaborating with various organizations, resurrected the abandoned house as an inn, called Cofunia.

Rapeseed flowers – photo by Author

We came across a vast flower bed, full of bright yellow rapeseed flowers.  An old man just came out of the vegetable field on the opposite side of the road.  “Do you also grow these flowers?” I asked him. 

“No,” he said.  “This land belongs to Tenri High School.” 

“When the school bought this farmland, their initial plan was to convert it to an athletic field.  But the land is sloped, as you can see.  If the land were flattened, the neighboring fields would become unstable.  So the school changed its plan.  They decided to keep the farmland and have their students maintain it.”

“The students grow vegetables on lower two-thirds of the land.  The top one-third, where it stretches along the Yamanobe no Michi, is used as a flower garden.  Here Seasonal flowers bloom all year round, so that whoever hikes on this road can enjoy the beauty of the flowers.”

The unique inn and the beautiful flower bed… Both are initiated by young people in Japan.  I felt a sliver of hope.

The Oldest Shrine in Japan Worships The Holy Mountain

No, it’s not Mt. Fuji

People usually call Omiwa Shrine (大神神社)Miwa-san, as if it were their close friend.  It is said to be the oldest shrine in Japan.

My mother is proud to have been visiting Miwa-san every first day of the month in the last 20 years or so. Rain or shine, she never misses leaving home before 9 in the morning, taking trains and a shuttle bus for a little over an hour, and passing through this torii gate once a month.   For her, who easily gets bored with everything else, it is an amazing accomplishment.  Do you see a little figure, the third from the left, carrying a large black backpack in this photo?  That’s my mother.

Once in a while, I happen to be in Japan on the first day of the month.  This spring was such a lucky occasion.  I was staying in Kyoto for a few days, so was my friend Yuri-san.  She also lives in Seattle, but happened to be visiting her family in Kyoto.  Let’s get together in Kyoto and go somewhere on April 1st.  Oh! April 1st!  How about going to Miwa-san with my mother? Was my suggestion.

Yuri-san agreed.  “How auspicious to visit a shrine that worships snakes in the year of the snake!” Thanks to her, I learned something new. She also suggested that we hike the Yamanobe no Michi 山辺の道after visiting Miwa-san.  I agreed.


Yuri-san and I met at the entrance to the Kintetsu line of Kyoto Station.    The JR line side, especially the entrance to the Shinkansen (bullet train), was jam-packed mainly with foreign tourists.  Luckily, the Kintetsu line side was far less crowded.  There were hardly any people in the limited express train that we got in, leaving Kyoto Station at 9:10 am, bound for Kashikojima.

We changed trains at Yamato Saidaiji and got off the train at Sakurai Station.  My mother, coming from Osaka, also on the Kintetsu line, was waiting for us at the exit.  A little relief that three of us got together with no hickup.       

On foot, it takes at least 30 minutes from Sakurai Station to Miwa-san. On the first day of every month, however, a shuttle bus runs between Sakurai Station and the foot of Miwa-san to accommodate the monthly regulars like my mother.  Yuri-san and I piggybacked on that service, and the three of us got on the shuttle bus.        

The bus went through a narrow road and arrived at Miwa Ebisu Shrine, a tiny sub-shrine of Miwa-san, where everyone got off.  Cute camelia flowers were blooming on the hedges to welcome us. 

Camelia flowers – photo by Author

Along the pathway from this sub-shrine to the main gate of Miwa-san, many stalls were lined up, selling local produce and freshly cooked goodies.  Yuri-san and I were tempted to stop at each stall.   Knowing the way around and also on her mission to complete her route before noon, my motherl led the way.  She didn’t give us little time to meander and look around. 

We arrived at the large torii gate. 

My mother bowed down deeply in front of the gate.  “You are not supposed to go through the gate in the middle.  Stay on the right or left side when you go through under it.” If I had asked her why,  she would have replied, “Because I was told to do so.” To her, it was a good enough reason.  I simply followed her.

Sando参道 of Miwa-san – photo by Author

Beyond the torii gate was a long, straight gravel pathway, sandwiched with rows of tall trees and lanterns.  Each lantern had the name of the people or the company that donated it.  More people were walking toward the main shrine than walking back this way.  It was still in the morning.

Even to a soul that doesn’t believe in any god, some sense of awe, humility, or purification should come up by walking along under this lush green.  Not a single trash on the gravel road.  Defused by he leaves and branches, the sunlight, however harsh it may be, softens by the time it reaches you.  The air is crisp, and you notice you are breathing deeper than usual.  It’s worth visiting any big shrine only to experience this magical feeling.    

Snake shaped faucet – photo by Author

It is customary to clean your hands and mouth with water before visiting the main shrine.  No exception here at Miwa-san.   What is unique is that the shape of the faucet is a snake.  What is the relationship between Miwa-san and a snake?

Miwa-san enshrines the god Omononushi no Okami 大物主大神. In both Kojiki古事記 and Nihon Shoki日本書紀, the two oldest books of Japanese history & mythology, a snake is depicted as one of this god’s incarnations. 

According to Miwa-san’s official website:

“During the reign of Emperor Sujin, there was a princess named Yamatototobimomosohime who served as a shrine maiden, conveying the will of the gods and helping the emperor with his affairs.

This princess was to become the wife of Omononushi no Okami, but he would only visit her at night. She asked him if she could see his face. Okami thought this was a reasonable request and granted her request. He told her that he was in a box containing her comb, but never to be surprised by opening it.

Suspicious, the princess opened the box the next morning to find a small snake inside, which made her scream in shock. The god instantly transformed from a snake into a beautiful man and reproached her for breaking her promise. He then flew into the sky and returned to Mount Miwa, saying she would never see him again. The princess then regretted her actions and stabbed herself in the vagina with chopsticks, losing her life. For this reason, Momosohime’s grave came to be known as Hashihaka (Hashihaka Tomb). This sad story about Hashihaka, located at the foot of Mount Miwa, is recorded in the Nihon Shoki.”

A rather sad and scary story. 


The Haiden of Miwa-san – photo by Author

On top of the steps is the haiden 拝殿, the worship hall.  The monthly ritual had already started when we got there.  Gagaku music was playing, with many people listening to it both inside and outside the building.

Another uniqueness of Miwa-san is that there is no honden 本殿, the main hall, that would normally exist beyond the haiden. 

Usually, a certain object of worship is housed in the honden.  For Miwa-san, however, the object of worship is the mountain itself.   We bow down in front of the haiden to pay respect to this holy mountain, Mount Miwa, which stands behind the haiden.

Mount Miwa from the observation deck – photo by Author

Mount Miwa is not visible from the front of the haiden.  If you walk up to the observation deck, you can see it through the tree branches.  On the day I visited, the cherry blossoms were in full bloom, decorating the graceful figure of the holy mountain.


One of my mother’s never-to-miss spots in Miwa-san is Kusuriido 薬井戸, where you can get holy water that would cure any illness.  In her backpack she had six empty half-a-litter PET bottles.  She would fill all the bottles with this holy water, carry them back to Osaka, and give three to her niece and keep three for herself.  Is it this holy water, or the fact that she carries the water back home every month, that keeps her healthy?  In either case, I have no complaints.

While my mother went rushing to the well, I was walking at my own pace along the passage leading to the well.  On the left side of the passage, there was a pond, and I found a rather new stone monument.  Intreagued, I went up closer.

Stone monument of Mishiya Yukio’s handwriing – photo of Author

清明(seimei)- 三島由紀夫 (Mishima Yukio)… That famous author Mishima Yukio?  Why is it here?

Another plaque by the monument explained why.   

Plaque – photo by Author

(My translation)

“In his novel Runaway Horses (奔馬, Honba), the second in his Sea of Fertility tetralogy. Mishima Yukio depicted the faith in holy Mount Miwa and the religious rituals of Omiwa Shrine as the novel’s central theme.

To study ancient Shintoism, Mishima attended the Saikusa Festival of Isagawa Shrine (Omiwa Shrine’s sub shrine) in June, 1966.  Mishima visited Omiwa Shrine again with Donald Keene on August 22, and stayed here for three nights.  On the 23rd, he strolled around Yamanobe no Michi at the foot of Mount Miwa.  On the 24th, he climbed up the peak of Mount Miwa.  After coming down from the peak, he attended the Gagaku music ritual held in the haiden.  Deeply impressed by the experience, Mishima wrote 晴明 (seimei=clear and bright) and 雲靉靆 (unaitai=cloudy and unclear) on the paper. 

Later Mishima wrote to Omiwa Shrine.

‘The sacred area of Omiwa Shrine was nothing but 晴明.  The days I spent being embraced by the god are an unforgettable experience in my life. 

I was honored to be allowed to climb up Mt. Miwa.  Looking down at the sacred stone at the peak, and looking up at the blue sky, I felt as if I was touching the base of the god’s seat. 

My everyday life in Tokyo is so distant from any god, I never thought I could ever come closer to Japan’s oldest god without feeling awe.  Not only awed, but I also felt invigorated and purified.  What a blessing from the god beyond my imagination!

Yamanobe no Michi, graceful dancing, and Gagaku music were all worth remembering.  Above all, I was deeply impressed by the priests’ relentless daily devotion day and night to the god.’

With the support of a generous donor, we erect the plaque of Mr. Mishima’s handwriting to cement the deep bond between him and Omiwa Shrine. 

Heisei 16th Year (2004) August “

Is this plaque an indication that I have to read Sea of Fertility? 


Miwa somen and Kakinoha sushi – photo by Author

My mother completed her monthly routine at Miwa-san.  Yuri-san and I had enough morning exercise.  Time for lunch! 

Morisho converted their front yard of the old farm house into an outdoor restaurant.  We ordered a lunch set, which contains the two local specialties: Somen and Kakinoha sushi.

Somen is very thin flour noodle.  Morisho serves somen in thin dashi broth.  Kakinoha sushi is wrapped around with a persimmon leaf.  Thanks to the antimicrobial effect of the persimmon, sushi lasts for a couple of days. 


After lunch, Yuri-san and I parted from my mother who went back to Osaka.  Off to Yamanobeno michi… I never imagined it would be that long of a hike.

Overlooking Yamato Sanzan from Miwa-san’s observation deck – photo by Author

Her Obituary

A long-time friend passed away

Yesterday I found out that a long-time friend of mine passed away almost a year ago. She was the very person that introduced me and my husband.


We two couples used to get together often, like going to plays, celebrating New Year’s and the Fourth of July.

But over time we drifted apart… They had three kids while we stayed childless. After they got divorced we tried to see them separately but it was not easy.

She was later diagnosed with Alzheimer’s disease. She may not have been even fifty at that time, quite a rare case. Once I made an appointment to get together with her, but when I visited her room in an assisted living facility, she was doing something with somebody else. She looked surprised to see me. Maybe she didn’t remember our appointment.

That was the last time I saw her. Now I regret, why I didn’t make another effort to see her…


I searched and found her obituary on the internet. She was four years younger. Her smile on the photo looked so lively.

Do I miss her? Very much. Do I feel sad? Not much. Her photo on the obituary has hit me with this truth. She went earlier, but I will follow her eventually. When exactly, I don’t know, but the day will certainly come. And I’m getting closer and closer to that moment each day.

After drifting apart for so long, now I feel so close to her. Her life and my life are not that different.

The Terracotta Walrus Faces Once Marvelled Now Look Like Ghosts

Can we no longer build things beautiful?

This unique 8-story building has been standing on the northwest corner of 3rd Avenue and Cherry Street in downtown Seattle for 118 years.

It was originally built as a home to the Arctic Club, a social institution formed by those men who returned to Seattle after “striking it rich” at Klondike Gold Rush.

It is unique because sculptured walrus heads are lined up on the third-floor exterior.

The tusks are long, the creature’s faces look real, and the intricate ornamental decorations are beautiful. “The building was one of the first in Seattle to use off-white terracotta panels over reinforced steel concrete frames as well as colored terracotta in submarine blue and ochre.” (The Arctic Club Hotel website)  When completed, people must have marveled the artistry of the building.    

Over a century later, what do we see?  Neighboring newer buildings are all much much taller, and have shining glass exterior walls, but none has such complex terracotta surfaces anymore. People focus on maximizing the profit of the buildings, asking how efficiently or how cost-effectively they can build it.  Not how beautiful it should be. 


Now these sculptured walrus faces look like ghosts – forgotten, abandoned by us human beings, in the name of progress. 

I wish not to call this progress…    

Power of Hope

We’ve seen it again in this disaster

On New Year’s Day, people’s celebratory mood was shattered in Japan.  Every time I watched the news on TV, the death toll was increasing.   NHK and other networks as well as YouTube videos showed horrible scenes. 

Watching these videos at home, all I could feel was helpfulness.  Nature doesn’t care if it’s New Year’s Day or not.  It doesn’t care if the city has a long history of impeccable Urushi lacquerware making.  It doesn’t care how many of the family members lost their lives.

No matter how far we humans have come to establish more convenient, comfortable lives over the millennium, one shake of the ground can destroy all that we have built.  We humans are powerless.


But one Facebook post by Takashi Wakamiya, who leads a group of Urushi lacquer craftspeople in Wajima, the city almost flattened by the earthquake, has given me power. 

However, even in these tough circumstances, I believe that artisans will try their best to respond to any work orders they receive.

At Hikoju Makie, we want to provide work to these artisans before they lose their spirit in the aftermath of the earthquake, hoping to connect them to a future of hope.

Even though somebody loses everything in a disaster such as an earthquake, as long as s/he has hope, s/he can restart, and rebuild, from nothing.  Hope in his/her heart has no physical element itself, but it is the source of power to create something. 

Japan has encountered numerous natural disasters in its long history.  Wakamiya-san’s message has reminded me of the power of hope, that my ancestors have always resorted after each disaster. 

Let me believe that I also have that power in me.