No, it’s not Mt. Fuji
People usually call Omiwa Shrine (大神神社)Miwa-san, as if it were their close friend. It is said to be the oldest shrine in Japan.
My mother is proud to have been visiting Miwa-san every first day of the month in the last 20 years or so. Rain or shine, she never misses leaving home before 9 in the morning, taking trains and a shuttle bus for a little over an hour, and passing through this torii gate once a month. For her, who easily gets bored with everything else, it is an amazing accomplishment. Do you see a little figure, the third from the left, carrying a large black backpack in this photo? That’s my mother.
Once in a while, I happen to be in Japan on the first day of the month. This spring was such a lucky occasion. I was staying in Kyoto for a few days, so was my friend Yuri-san. She also lives in Seattle, but happened to be visiting her family in Kyoto. Let’s get together in Kyoto and go somewhere on April 1st. Oh! April 1st! How about going to Miwa-san with my mother? Was my suggestion.
Yuri-san agreed. “How auspicious to visit a shrine that worships snakes in the year of the snake!” Thanks to her, I learned something new. She also suggested that we hike the Yamanobe no Michi 山辺の道after visiting Miwa-san. I agreed.
Yuri-san and I met at the entrance to the Kintetsu line of Kyoto Station. The JR line side, especially the entrance to the Shinkansen (bullet train), was jam-packed mainly with foreign tourists. Luckily, the Kintetsu line side was far less crowded. There were hardly any people in the limited express train that we got in, leaving Kyoto Station at 9:10 am, bound for Kashikojima.
We changed trains at Yamato Saidaiji and got off the train at Sakurai Station. My mother, coming from Osaka, also on the Kintetsu line, was waiting for us at the exit. A little relief that three of us got together with no hickup.
On foot, it takes at least 30 minutes from Sakurai Station to Miwa-san. On the first day of every month, however, a shuttle bus runs between Sakurai Station and the foot of Miwa-san to accommodate the monthly regulars like my mother. Yuri-san and I piggybacked on that service, and the three of us got on the shuttle bus.
The bus went through a narrow road and arrived at Miwa Ebisu Shrine, a tiny sub-shrine of Miwa-san, where everyone got off. Cute camelia flowers were blooming on the hedges to welcome us.


Camelia flowers – photo by Author
Along the pathway from this sub-shrine to the main gate of Miwa-san, many stalls were lined up, selling local produce and freshly cooked goodies. Yuri-san and I were tempted to stop at each stall. Knowing the way around and also on her mission to complete her route before noon, my motherl led the way. She didn’t give us little time to meander and look around.
We arrived at the large torii gate.
My mother bowed down deeply in front of the gate. “You are not supposed to go through the gate in the middle. Stay on the right or left side when you go through under it.” If I had asked her why, she would have replied, “Because I was told to do so.” To her, it was a good enough reason. I simply followed her.

Sando参道 of Miwa-san – photo by Author
Beyond the torii gate was a long, straight gravel pathway, sandwiched with rows of tall trees and lanterns. Each lantern had the name of the people or the company that donated it. More people were walking toward the main shrine than walking back this way. It was still in the morning.
Even to a soul that doesn’t believe in any god, some sense of awe, humility, or purification should come up by walking along under this lush green. Not a single trash on the gravel road. Defused by he leaves and branches, the sunlight, however harsh it may be, softens by the time it reaches you. The air is crisp, and you notice you are breathing deeper than usual. It’s worth visiting any big shrine only to experience this magical feeling.

Snake shaped faucet – photo by Author
It is customary to clean your hands and mouth with water before visiting the main shrine. No exception here at Miwa-san. What is unique is that the shape of the faucet is a snake. What is the relationship between Miwa-san and a snake?
Miwa-san enshrines the god Omononushi no Okami 大物主大神. In both Kojiki古事記 and Nihon Shoki日本書紀, the two oldest books of Japanese history & mythology, a snake is depicted as one of this god’s incarnations.
According to Miwa-san’s official website:
“During the reign of Emperor Sujin, there was a princess named Yamatototobimomosohime who served as a shrine maiden, conveying the will of the gods and helping the emperor with his affairs.
This princess was to become the wife of Omononushi no Okami, but he would only visit her at night. She asked him if she could see his face. Okami thought this was a reasonable request and granted her request. He told her that he was in a box containing her comb, but never to be surprised by opening it.
Suspicious, the princess opened the box the next morning to find a small snake inside, which made her scream in shock. The god instantly transformed from a snake into a beautiful man and reproached her for breaking her promise. He then flew into the sky and returned to Mount Miwa, saying she would never see him again. The princess then regretted her actions and stabbed herself in the vagina with chopsticks, losing her life. For this reason, Momosohime’s grave came to be known as Hashihaka (Hashihaka Tomb). This sad story about Hashihaka, located at the foot of Mount Miwa, is recorded in the Nihon Shoki.”
A rather sad and scary story.

The Haiden of Miwa-san – photo by Author
On top of the steps is the haiden 拝殿, the worship hall. The monthly ritual had already started when we got there. Gagaku music was playing, with many people listening to it both inside and outside the building.
Another uniqueness of Miwa-san is that there is no honden 本殿, the main hall, that would normally exist beyond the haiden.
Usually, a certain object of worship is housed in the honden. For Miwa-san, however, the object of worship is the mountain itself. We bow down in front of the haiden to pay respect to this holy mountain, Mount Miwa, which stands behind the haiden.

Mount Miwa from the observation deck – photo by Author
Mount Miwa is not visible from the front of the haiden. If you walk up to the observation deck, you can see it through the tree branches. On the day I visited, the cherry blossoms were in full bloom, decorating the graceful figure of the holy mountain.
One of my mother’s never-to-miss spots in Miwa-san is Kusuriido 薬井戸, where you can get holy water that would cure any illness. In her backpack she had six empty half-a-litter PET bottles. She would fill all the bottles with this holy water, carry them back to Osaka, and give three to her niece and keep three for herself. Is it this holy water, or the fact that she carries the water back home every month, that keeps her healthy? In either case, I have no complaints.
While my mother went rushing to the well, I was walking at my own pace along the passage leading to the well. On the left side of the passage, there was a pond, and I found a rather new stone monument. Intreagued, I went up closer.

Stone monument of Mishiya Yukio’s handwriing – photo of Author
清明(seimei)- 三島由紀夫 (Mishima Yukio)… That famous author Mishima Yukio? Why is it here?
Another plaque by the monument explained why.

Plaque – photo by Author
(My translation)
“In his novel Runaway Horses (奔馬, Honba), the second in his Sea of Fertility tetralogy. Mishima Yukio depicted the faith in holy Mount Miwa and the religious rituals of Omiwa Shrine as the novel’s central theme.
To study ancient Shintoism, Mishima attended the Saikusa Festival of Isagawa Shrine (Omiwa Shrine’s sub shrine) in June, 1966. Mishima visited Omiwa Shrine again with Donald Keene on August 22, and stayed here for three nights. On the 23rd, he strolled around Yamanobe no Michi at the foot of Mount Miwa. On the 24th, he climbed up the peak of Mount Miwa. After coming down from the peak, he attended the Gagaku music ritual held in the haiden. Deeply impressed by the experience, Mishima wrote 晴明 (seimei=clear and bright) and 雲靉靆 (unaitai=cloudy and unclear) on the paper.
Later Mishima wrote to Omiwa Shrine.
‘The sacred area of Omiwa Shrine was nothing but 晴明. The days I spent being embraced by the god are an unforgettable experience in my life.
I was honored to be allowed to climb up Mt. Miwa. Looking down at the sacred stone at the peak, and looking up at the blue sky, I felt as if I was touching the base of the god’s seat.
My everyday life in Tokyo is so distant from any god, I never thought I could ever come closer to Japan’s oldest god without feeling awe. Not only awed, but I also felt invigorated and purified. What a blessing from the god beyond my imagination!
Yamanobe no Michi, graceful dancing, and Gagaku music were all worth remembering. Above all, I was deeply impressed by the priests’ relentless daily devotion day and night to the god.’
With the support of a generous donor, we erect the plaque of Mr. Mishima’s handwriting to cement the deep bond between him and Omiwa Shrine.
Heisei 16th Year (2004) August “
Is this plaque an indication that I have to read Sea of Fertility?

Miwa somen and Kakinoha sushi – photo by Author
My mother completed her monthly routine at Miwa-san. Yuri-san and I had enough morning exercise. Time for lunch!
Morisho converted their front yard of the old farm house into an outdoor restaurant. We ordered a lunch set, which contains the two local specialties: Somen and Kakinoha sushi.
Somen is very thin flour noodle. Morisho serves somen in thin dashi broth. Kakinoha sushi is wrapped around with a persimmon leaf. Thanks to the antimicrobial effect of the persimmon, sushi lasts for a couple of days.
After lunch, Yuri-san and I parted from my mother who went back to Osaka. Off to Yamanobeno michi… I never imagined it would be that long of a hike.

Overlooking Yamato Sanzan from Miwa-san’s observation deck – photo by Author